| Top 10 Newest Tips |
| Scenery |
| Acrylic Water and Scenery Base | Greetings all,
I have used about every scenery method I can think of and I'm continually experimenting in between running HO trains or building 1/35 scale military scenes with lots of armor. Occasional 1/48 scale WW2 aircraft are in there to give me yet another angle on the model building scene.
I have discovered that all of the color requirements for the above mentioned hobbies can be met with craft-type acrylic paints from Hobby Lobby and Wal-mart. The colors alog side the ones shown on color charts are amazingly close if not right on the money.
Scenery and water are easily represented with these type paints and when mixed with "Minwax" brand Polycrylic gloss protective, the water scenes become most realistic with only one step to pour the sealer. For a solid ground foundation I mix acrlyic paints to a base color theme, spray on a fine mist of water and add white glue, I then mix all of the elements together into a "goo" and as the stuff is drying sift fine grain dirt and grass material into the mix.
One other method that works especially well for mountains and other raised topography is to soak brown wrapping paper into a thinned version of the "goo" using acrlyic household caulking from a tube, this will thin very nicely and solidify quickly for almost any raised area of land-form. I use the crumpled newspaper under the wrapping paper and with great results.
Good luck with acrylics as they seem to be a good answer for many applications.
johncpo
| Entered By:
johncpo | |
| Scenic Grass Laying | Here is the 6 step way I lay my grass on my layout. I use the expensive stuff from Woodland Scenics because I think it looks the best out of all of them. you can use whatever you want, though.
1. I take modpodge, or any other type of thick, water proof glue and lay it down on where I want to put down grass or dirt.
2. I sprinkle a coat of dirt colored scenery dust on top of the glue and wait for it to dry completely.
3. blow off the extra dust
4. Cover the dirt with another thick coat of glue
5. If you want dirt, just put on a second layer of the dirt colored scenery dust. If you want grass, sprinkle some grass colored scenery dust on top of the area.
6. While the glue is still wet, depending on how nice you want the grass, poke at the grass in splotches so the glue comes to the surface and give those areas a light sprinkling of the dirt colored scenery dust. (the less splotches, the nicer the lawn)
That is it! You let the glue dry and enjoy the new scenry you have just put down | Entered By:
Redwall | |
| Structures |
| Another Cheap way to make buildings | Another cheap way to make buildings is to create your own on a paint program or print some off this site (http://www.fiddlersgreen.net/)onto cardstock paper. You can glue them together using ordinary white glue and can be done with it in only a few minutes. This is a great way to save your money and still have the buildings you want on your layout. | Entered By:
redwall | |
| Scenery |
| Cheap Awnings | Many structures have awnings above windows and doors.
Simply cut the top serrated edge of a plain brown paper bag
to fit the scale you model. Paint in any desired color and
attach to building above window or door. the bottom (serrated edge)
should be hung over a solid wire or paper clip bent in a U - shape. | Entered By:
stripes2 | |
| Track Laying |
| 9V Battery | Do you ever get tired of walking from one end of the layout and back just to test a track joint, connection or turn out? Your power pack have a long reset when you short it?
Here's a trick I use. Carry a 9V Battery. Just place the connections direct on the track. It will run an engine. Pretty slow, so you can test connections etc.
Also, if you have a short, the battery will not run the trains.
Note, don't use the power pack at the same time. When running with the battery I unplug the power pack. | Entered By:
SKMoss | |
| Super Detailing |
| You don't have to take power off the tracks | When making FRED's (flashing rear end devices) or lighting a caboose, you don't have to take the power off the tracks. You can use watch batteries to power the little lights. You never really have to use that big a light. Watch batteries, although expensive, last a very long time. Put in a small switch to control the power. It's fast and easy with no real hastle. | Entered By:
redwall | |
| Track Laying |
| Tix Low Temp 275 F Degree Solder | If you are tiered of melting ties & switches when soldering track joiners then you might want to try Tix low temp 275 degree F solder. Easy flowing solder melts at only 275 degrees F and yet has the holding power of 4,300 pounds per square inch. Adheres to all solderable metals and works with soldering iron or gun. Will not tarnish. Package of twenty 3 inch long sticks. TIX SOLDER Item Number: 17110, Micro-Mark, (micromark.com), $15.65. A bit expensive, but worth it.
| Entered By:
Ogre | |
| Structures |
| Straight Bends In Brass Structures | If you want an inexpensive tool for making straight even bends in etched brass structures and flattening bent sections. Try a pair of flat jaw welding sheet metal pliers. They come in 4" & 8" widths. You buy them at www.harborfright.com for $3 or Homedepot or Lowes hardware for about $6. | Entered By:
Ogre | |
| Scenery |
| Plaster for Scenery | I mentioned some time ago that the set rate of plaster can be increase or slowed with salt and milk i've had a chat with my retired plasterer Dad to get which does what,
Salt will speed up the cure the more salt the faster it will go off.
Milk will slow the cure the more milk the slower it sets.
Bear in mind when my Dad was plastering Milk was Milk pastyoureyes only, so i suggest if your wanting to slow your plaster use standard milk.
I'd say a little salt added to builders plaster would be a lot cheaper than hobby shop plaster. Chemist shop plaster bandage is cheaper here in Oz than hobby shop bandage and at the speed it sets will have a lot of salt in it.
I received a reply to this post on another forum from a US based Tiler, He says Baking Soda will speed plaster up and Vinegar will slow it down. These also work with Cement products including Grout.
And he says only very small amounts are needed.
| Entered By:
Damien | |
| Track Laying |
| Simple rail joiners | Tin duct work tape is a great way to keep your joints together. It doesn't block the train's' wheels or anything. Just file your tracks until even with each other and apply the tape to the sides of the rails. Voila! | Entered By:
Redwall | |